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rkammlott
Joined: 26 Jul 2004 Posts: 47 Location: Teaneck NJ
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 17:35 Post subject: |
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nice job. how did you get the cylinders so nice and fresh looking? |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 08:14 Post subject: cylinders |
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The cylinder cleaning was a part of the project that was daunting in the beginning. They are too big for my cabinet and didn't want to make that much mess outside with sand blasting. I had planned to paint the steel barrels anyway but wanted to leave the heads bare. There was a lot of debris from the few seconds it acted as a wood chipper. We experimented with several cleaners and found CLR Grease Magnet brushed on and left to sit for a few hours, but kept wet, dissolved much of the surface grime and a pressure washer spray after cleaned things up nicely. Don't think the CLR will do much for heavy grease but worked good for us. The household CLR is not the same and has chemicals that may not agree with engine parts. I used about 3/4 of one bag of sand to finish up around exhaust ports and spots of corrosion. A few of the heads were painted so I went ahead and sprayed a light coat of the same silver as the crankcase on the heads as well as doing the barrels. One of our members took on the task of fin straightening on the barrels and his time shows in the finished look. Another product we tried that seemed to work is Marvel Mystery oil, it cuts grease and dirt but being oil based is harder to clean up and I didn't want to wash it off outside with the pressure washer.
Will add a photo of a rocker arm later, cleaned in grease magnet.
Jerry
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1080798.jpg
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1080799.jpg
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1080805.jpg |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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rkammlott
Joined: 26 Jul 2004 Posts: 47 Location: Teaneck NJ
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Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 06:31 Post subject: |
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looks great. maybe build a brace for the front (prop side) of the engine to steady it during road trips . make it removable so you can take it off during runs? |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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rwahlgren
Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 323
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Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 21:42 Post subject: |
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Very nice job you guys are doing. Could you post the brand and color of paint your using? Is it spray can's or ? Is that the original factory colors? Real good job cleaning stuff up.
Curious what you used for preservative oil on the inner parts during the build up.
The trailer looks good, except I'd be a bit concerned about that one weld joint carrying all the engine weight and running loads. If it was mine I would have used a thicker and possibly rectangular material for that support frame. Was it designed using FEA? And a big thanks for all the pictures, very nice.
In this picture it shows a brace that supports the post that the QEC engine mount attaches to, its in the rear.
http://www.enginehistory.org/Museums/SeattleMoF/4360%20engine.JPG
Last edited by rwahlgren on Sun Jun 08, 2014 22:06; edited 1 time in total |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 19:14 Post subject: |
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Thanks for your comments, we are having a great time with this project. The paint is not original colors, I looked around the net for TBMs that were being rebuilt and had engine pics. Finally just went to the paint shop and found what I liked. The supplier is Sherwin Williams, I primed everything with their epoxy primer and then the single stage color. The grey is 50575 Dark Grey and the silver just says S4A, code from some vehicle I suspect. I had them put some silver in spray bombs so it was easier to use on the cylinders but the rest were all mixed and sprayed the conventional way. There's also many blacks to choose from but most all look the same to me.
As for assembly lube I have for years used a mixture of 50/50 aircraft engine oil, usually Aeroshell 100 and STP. The STP is very sticky and makes a mixture that stays put for a long time in an engine that may sit for a while.
You are bang on about the trailer upright, my son is the designer and a Mechanical Engineer. He has said several times that the joint you mention is the critical one and has taken measures to make sure it's up to the task. We are still planning some sort of support/cradle just for traveling but no final decisions on that yet.
I'm planning to build my own fuel and oil tanks, based on a 5 to 10 minute run I'm thinking a 20 gallon oil and 15 gal fuel. The oil tank would need a bit of air space so will probably run at about 18 gal. Does this sound reasonable? |
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rwahlgren
Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 323
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 22:16 Post subject: |
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That paint is much better than original stuff. Back in the day it was likely an air dry / bake enamel. How did you deal with the 2 part paint and the nasty isocyonates its suppose to give off.
So were you able to purchase new gaskets etc. or did you have to make them? How about bearings, are they the old ones or new? And for the parts that are chromed did you have them rechromed? Maybe I missed that info in this thread. You've done a beautiful job on everything, including the photos and write up. You minds well write a book on restoring the R2600 now, I'm sure Kim would give you some help.
I quickly looked back through some of the pictures, did you not split the crankcase? |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 16:12 Post subject: |
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I think the best paints were a few years ago, the best I've used was PPG Delstar, but due to chemical regs and the like I don't think you can get it anymore. I find I have to be much more careful spraying the new stuff to avoid problems. I just use a good commercial respirator but change the cartridges often. Also do not use the real bad stuff like Imron, alumigrip and other true two part paints.
As far as gaskets go we both bought and made, The Curtis Wright Store in CA has a great supply of NOS stuff at very reasonable prices, also bought some top rings and bolts from them. The only chrome is the ignition ring, we were lucky as it was on the engine from overhaul. The other shiny stuff is mostly many hours of polished aluminum. The main bearings in this engine are massive rollers, we could see enough of them to be satisfied that they were ok and both master rods and all the link rods feel good on their big ends so we decided not to take it apart that far. The other factor in favor was the fact that the engine did not suffer an internal failure, it stopped, it's thought, due to a carb/fuel problem and only has 218hrs since overhaul. there was no metal at all in the sumps or screens and we found no mechanical defects on our tear down except what was done on impact and since by mother nature.
Adding a photo of a NOS piston I acquired today from a friend, an amazing piece that almost looks like it should be art not an engine part. Also a couple of the day our engine stopped, notice the blades are bent back, a good sign the engine was stopped or at least just wind milling.
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1080921.jpg
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1080923.jpg
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1090092.jpg
http://www.enginehistory.org/BBimages/WilcoxJ/P1090094.jpg |
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rwahlgren
Joined: 15 Aug 2003 Posts: 323
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 13:02 Post subject: |
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I looks like that piston was polished. That finish on the skirt area would not be good for lube oil retention. Whats the Curtis Wright store name?
Bearings ?, since it had all that rust in other areas, I was just wondering what the journals would be like. |
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jwilcox
Joined: 11 Mar 2010 Posts: 87 Location: Fredericton NB Canada
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 15:03 Post subject: |
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Sorry about that I think they go by Curtis Wright Store on Ebay but the company name is Carl Skinner Company, Ventura CA. The piston is indeed polished but that's the way it was, it was still wrapped in brown oil paper coated in cosmolene (or whatever that gooey stuff is called) and in a fancy box. The rust in the engine was from humidity not pooled water so any surface that was open to air and set long enough for the oil layer to go away was subject to corrosion. Any area such as bearing areas on shafts and gears that fit with a few thou clearance retained oil and was not subject to the air/humidity. There would be corrosion on the gear face but none at all on the stub that support the gear in a bearing/bushing, this was common through ought the engine. There also is a cone shaped plug in the center of the crankshaft that is removable to inspect inside the crank, all looked good in there. Had this engine set for a few more years it surely would have been at best a static display, at worst scrap. We're still planning on it being a runner. |
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